The 1980s-1990s Chrysler Computer Codes

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"Key Dance"

Codes


CHRYSLER "KEY DANCE"
& OBD II CODES


www.allpar.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t43586.html

Do the key dance to get trouble codes; follow instructions here: If your 'Check Engine' light is on, the first thing you should do is check the PCM for stored error codes. If your cloud is a '95-'97 model, you don't need a special tool to do this; just the key. This trick works on a large majority of Chrysler vehicles built before the late '90s.

Put simply:
Starting with the car off, turn the key like this: ON - OFF - ON - OFF - ON (in rapid succession).

Here's very specific details if you couldn't get that to work the 1st time:
1. Make sure the car is off and the key is in the OFF position.
2. Turn the key forward to the RUN (not ACC) position.
3. Turn the key back to the OFF position again.
4. Repeat step #2.
5. Repeat step #3.
6. Repeat step #2.

After turning the key to RUN position for the 3rd time, leave it there. If you were paying attention to the Check Engine light, you probably noticed it lighting up each time you turned the key, like it normally does. The last time, it'll stay on for a few seconds, then go out. After that, you need to pay attention.

The light will start to blink out any stored error codes. The codes are 2 digits, and there is a short pause between each digit. No code will ever be more than 2 digits, and no digit will be more than 9 blinks (obviously). There will be a slightly longer pause between each code. No code will ever be repeated twice on the same check (if you see 23 23, it's probably a 55, etc.).

Example- Code 12 stored:
12: BLINK *pause* BLINK BLINK (slightly longer pause)
55: BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK *pause* BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK

55 is the End of Test code. If you get a 55, there are no more codes after that. It's normal; don't be worried.

Some common codes:
12 - Computer lost power recently. Nothing to worry about if you disconnected your battery for some reason.
15 - No speed/distance sensor signal. This is the most common cause of A604/41TE transmission 'Limp Mode' troubles. The sensor costs less than $20 at the dealer.
24 - Throttle Position Sensor voltage too high/low. Check the sensor and the wires connected to it.
32 - EGR failure.
55 - End of Test. Normal.
88 - Start of Test. Usually not displayed.

Lists of codes can be found at tradervar.com and AllPar (80s-90s codes).

Notes:
* This doesn't work on 1998-2000 models. An OBD-II scanner is required to check the fault codes on these cars. Some car part shops, such as Auto Zone, will scan your computer for free. OBD-II engine codes can be looked up at OBDII.com.

- Some newer models display the codes on the digital odometer instead of blinking the Check Engine light - those codes can be more than 2 digits (ex.: PT Cruiser, 2G Neon). On those models, you usually check the codes by holding down the odometer trip reset button while turning the key to ON. This may work for 2001+ cloud cars as well. These codes can be found at PTCruizer.com (Late 90s and 2001+).



From Allpar: www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html


These codes apply to the models whose diagnostic codes can be read by the key-toggle method described above. This feature was discontinued after the 1997 model year.

Click here for details on how to get the codes, what they might mean, and for newer codes.

  • Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)
  • The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (loong pause)
  • It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
  • 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes are not repeated.)
  • 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
    • John McGuire wrote: "The older Vipers will blink out diag codes with four off/on key turns. They removed the capability starting in... I think 2000, at any rate I know my 2001 requires a computer to check the codes."
  • On some models (such as a 1995 Neon), when the check engine light goes on, you may be able to get the codes simply by putting in the key and moving it to the RUN position; the light will blink out the codes by itself.
  • Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete. It stemps from a list posted on the Mopar Mailing List, but many modifications have been made.
  • * Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light on some models.

IMPORTANT. Codes may be different for different models. Check your manual.

  • Code 11 - Intermittent loss of crankshaft and/or camshaft possision sensor signals to PCM
  • Code 12 - Problems with the battery connection. Direct battery input to PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.
  • Code 13 - Problem with the MAP sensor circuit.
  • Code 14 - MAP sensor voltage out of normal range.
  • Code 15 - A Problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor signal. No Vehicle Speed Sensor signal detected during road load conditions.
  • Code 16 - No INput signal from knock sensor.
  • Code 17 - Engine is cold too long. Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating teperatures during initial operation (check the thermostat).
  • Code 21 - Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit. Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.
  • Code 22 - Engine coolant temerature sensor voltage out of normal range.
  • Code 23 - Intake air temerature sensor voltage out of normal range.
  • Code 24 - Throttle position sensor voltage high or low. Test the throttle position sensor.
  • Code 25 - Idle Air Control (IAC) valve circuits. A shortened condition is detected in one or more of the IAC valve circuits. Or a vacuum leak is detected.
  • Code 27 - One of the injector control circuit output drivers does not respond properly to the control signal. Check the circuits.
  • Code 31 - EVAP system fault.
  • Code 32 - An open or shortened condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit. Possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.
  • Code 33 - Air conditioning clutch relay circuit. An open or shortened condition detected in the alternator field control circuit.
  • Code 34 - Open or shortened condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.
  • Code 35 - Open or shortened condition detected in the radiator fan high or low speed relay circuits.
  • Code 37 - Transaxle PARK/NEUTRAL switch failure.
  • Code 41- Problem with the charging system. An open or shortened condition detected in the alternator feild control circuit.
  • Code 42 - Fuel pump relat or auto shutdown relay (ASD) control circuit indicates an open or shortened circuit condition.
  • Code 43 - Multiple cylinder misfire detected. Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time.
  • Code 44 - Battery temperature sensor voltage circuit.
  • Code 45 - Transaxle fault present in transmission control module - automatic transaxles.
  • Code 46 - Charging system voltage too high. Computer indicates that the battery voltage is not properly regulated.
  • Code 47- Charging system voltage too low. Battery voltage sensor input below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant change in voltage detected during active test of alternator output.
  • Code 51 - Oxygen Sensor signal input indicates lean fuel/air ratio condition during engine operation.
  • Code 52 - Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich fuel/air ration condition during engine operation.
  • Code 54 - No camshaft position sensor signal from distributor. Problem with the distributor synchronization circuit.
  • Code 55 - Completion of fault code display on CHECK ENGINE light. This is the end of stored codes.
  • Code 61 - MAP sensor out of range.
  • Code 62 - Unsuccessful attempt to update EMR millage in the controller EEPROM.
  • Code 63 - Controller failure, EEPROM write denied. Check PCM.
  • Code 64 - Catalytic converter efficency below required level.
  • Code 65 - Power steering switch failure or no release of brake switch detected.
  • Code 66 - Transmission control module (TCM) or bod control module (BCM) not sensed by PCM.
  • code 71 - PRM output voltage low.
  • Code 72 - Catalytic converter efficiency below required level.
  • Code 77 - Speed Control relay fault.


Footnotes



NOTE #1.

The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar

NOTE #2.

From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't. This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -- J.E. Winburn

NOTE #3.

Matt Rowe comments: The throttle postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

NOTE #4.

During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.

The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.

For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)

NOTE #5.

Wade Goldman wrote: In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the sensor to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of replacing the converter, breather tube and all.

NOTE #6.

The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks, bbodnar@lucent.com)

Note #7

Steve Knickerbocker wrote: Inside your distributor you have two pickups, one is for the ignition and one is to tell the computer where number one cylinder is in its rotation. If you look at the four slotted tangs inside there you will see one has a bigger slot, that's the one that tells the sync pickup what's number one. In other words, the pickup inside the distributor is bad.


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