AIR CONDITIONING

Basic Recharging Instructions

R-12, R-134a, Details & Prices

Converting to R134a

Getting An EPA Certificate To Install R-12

Free Zone: alternative to R134a


BASIC RECHARGING INSTRUCTIONS

http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/maintain/answer.php?air_conditioning_2.html

CAUTION: The high side of the A/C system is under considerable pressure. If a can of refrigerant is connected to the high side service fitting, it may explode! The system must therefore be recharged by using the low side service fitting only. If you are not sure which fittings are which, do not attempt to recharge your air conditioner yourself. Wear eye protection and avoid direct contact with the refrigerant as it can cause frostbite on bare skin.

The basic recharging procedure goes as follows:

1. Find the low side service fitting. (There are two fittings: "low" and "high". Never use the high fitting - it wouldn't charge the system, and the higher pressure could cause an explosion. The low fitting is the one on the larger diameter tube, running from the evaporator (in the dashboard) to the compressor (on the engine).

2. Determine the type of refrigerant required by the system. On most 1993 and older vehicles, this would be R12. On most 1994 and newer vehicles, it would be R134a.

CAUTION: R12 and R134a refrigerants are incompatible and must not be intermixed. On most 1993 and newer vehicles, there's an identification decal or sticker that tells what kind of refrigerant is required. Also, the size and design of R134a and R12 service fittings are different to avoid cross-contamination.

A "recharge kit" connects the can of refrigerant to the low-side service port. A hose with a pressure gauge is the only way to do the job accurately and safely.

3. Connect a can of refrigerant to a gauge set or recharging hose and valve set. Follow the equipment supplier's directions for making the connections.

4. Open the valve momentarily on the gauge set or hose to blow all air out of the line (this is necessary to keep from introducing air and moisture into your A/C system).

5. Connect the gauge set or hose to the low side A/C service fitting on the vehicle.

6. CAUTION: Make sure the can of refrigerant is held in the upright position so only vapor enters the line. Do not tip the can sideways or upside down as doing so will allow liquid to enter the low pressure side of the A/C system (This may cause damage to the A/C compressor). Also, never heat the can to make it empty faster as doing so may cause the can to explode.

7. Start the engine and turn the A/C system on high. The compressor should be engaged or cycling on and off (it may be necessary to jump the compressor clutch directly to the battery if the system is extremely low on refrigerant to keep it engaged). Compressor suction will pull refrigerant vapor into the system and slowly empty the can. This can take up to 10 minutes or more, so don't be anxious.

8. When the can is empty, disconnect the charging hose from the service fitting. Use care when disconnecting the "empty" can from the gauge set or charging hose as it may contain some residual refrigerant.

9. Add additional cans of refrigerant as needed until the system is properly charged.

CAUTION: The most common mistake made by do-it-yourselfers is overcharging. Too much refrigerant can reduce cooling efficiency just the same as too little refrigerant. To work properly, the A/C system needs just the right amount. Always refer to the system capacity specs in a shop manual or other source to determine how much refrigerant is required. System capacities are specified in ounces. One can of refrigerant equals about 14 oz. Usually three to four cans is enough to fully recharge a typical passenger car A/C system that was empty. If the system is low, one or two cans of refrigerant are usually all that's required.

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MORE ON RECHARGING

[ www.autozone.dk/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/42/38/0900823d80134238.jsp ]
WITHOUT SIGHT GLASS
On vehicles that are not equipped with sight glasses, it is necessary to feel the temperature difference in the inlet and outlet lines at the receiver/drier to gauge the refrigerant level. Use the following procedure:

Locate the receiver/drier. It will generally be up front near the condenser. It is shaped like a small fire extinguisher and will always have two lines connected to it. One line goes to the expansion valve and the other goes to the condenser.

With the engine and the air conditioner running, hold a line in each hand and gauge their relative temperatures. If they are both the same approximate temperature, the system is correctly charged.

If the line from the expansion valve to the receiver/drier is a lot colder than the line from the receiver/drier to the condenser, then the system is overcharged. It should be noted that this is an extremely rare condition.

If the line that leads from the receiver/drier to the condenser is a lot colder than the other line, the system is under charged.

If the system is undercharged or overcharged, have it checked by a professional air conditioning mechanic.

TEST GAUGES:
Most of the service work performed in air conditioning requires the use of a set of two gauges, one for the high (discharge) pressure side of the system, the other for the low (suction) side.

The low side gauge records both pressure and vacuum. Vacuum readings are calibrated from 0 to 30 in. Hg (200 kPa) and the pressure graduations read from 0 to no less than 60 in. Hg (410 kPa).

The high side gauge measures pressure from 0 to at least 600 in. Hg (4100 kPa).

Both gauges are threaded into a manifold that contains two hand shut-off valves. Proper manipulation of these valves and the use of the attached test hoses allow the user to perform the following services:

Test high and low side pressures.

Remove air, moisture, and contaminated refrigerant.

The manifold valves are designed so that they have no direct effect on gauge readings, but serve only to provide for, or cut off, flow of refrigerant through the manifold. During all testing and hook-up operations, the valves are kept in a closed position to avoid disturbing [This is not a "cut-off" - this is how the paragraph ended - rj]
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According to industry research, most people are not aware that they can "recharge" their automobile's air conditioning themselves. Recharging is simply adding refrigerant.

Air conditioner charging products, such as Measure & Charge from Interdynamics, can save the do-it-yourselfer up to $100 per use compared to repair shop services. For more information on do-it-yourself air conditioner recharging and retrofitting, visit www.id-usa.com.
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Compressor Oil Charge for R-12 System ( OC-1)

• 2 ozs. of Lubricant; • 1 oz. of R-12 Propellant; [http://www.id-usa.com./catalog.asp?CID=43]
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[www.faqfarm.com/Q/Where_can_you_find_a_diagram_for_installing_freon_on_a_1995_Pontiac_Grand_Am]
"WHERE DO YOU PUT THE FREON?"
[95 Grand Am] It should be the same as my 92. Under front of the car coming from compressor is a large line. On that line (low side line) is the low presure fitting,this where you put R134 or R12,which ever one you allready have in the car.
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Sealants - www.coolprofits.com/articles/aircondition/ac_sealants_p1.htm
(Manufacturer's Statements on their own products. The article doesn't give any more information.)

[ http://magrathea.mur.csu.edu.au:8339/air-con.shtml ]
Air Conditioner Maintenance:

One of the biggest mistakes people make with their air conditioner is only using it in the summer months. This allows the seals to dry out. The second most common mistake is only servicing it when it is no longer working efficiently.

The unit should be serviced every year and the filter replaced every 2 years.

Your air conditioner will give you much longer and more efficient service if you run it every week for at least 10 mins (winter and summer)

In winter it makes a far more capable defroster than heat.





R-12, R-134a, & Other Refrigerants

[http://www.trssales.com/]

R-12 12oz cans = case of 12 R1212OZ $270.00 (Sample Price)

: R-12 http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/moparmuscle/techarticles/34460 ]

However, if your R-12 system still performs well, R-12 will be legal and available until the year 2030. That's the good news. Unfortunately, right now you can expect to pay around $40 per pound for R-12, as opposed to about $8 per pound for R-134a. And domestic production of R-12 only ceased in 1994—think what future prices will be!

Also, and this is important, the filter/drier on your system should be considered a service replacement item, just like any other filter on your car. It should be replaced to rid your system of impurities and debris which it has trapped, whether or not you are converting. If you are converting, the drier needs to be replaced because the desiccant in original R-12 units is not compatible with R-134a—the desiccant pellets will turn to mush and plug the filter, which will damage other components in the system. There are desiccants that are compatible with either coolant, as well as R-134a-specific desiccants.

The R-134a systems were not as cold bacause the industry was originally suggesting that R-134a systems should be charged with 90 percent as much refrigerant as the R-12 systems were charged with. They've since found that most systems actually require only 60-75 percent as much R-134a as the R-12 charge specs. "The systems were overcharged, so they weren't as efficient," says Al.

The major component differences between an R-12 and an R-134a system are the hoses, O-ring seals, the service ports (where the refrigerant is put into and evacuated from the system), lubricating oil, the expansion pressure relief valve (which acts as the thermostat that turns the compressor on and off to keep it from freezing up), and the desiccant in the filter/dryer.

If you are using fresh hoses, the difference between the two is that there is an extra barrier liner on the inside of R-134a hoses. You can use fresh R-134a hoses on an R-12 system, but you cannot use fresh R-12 hoses on a R-134a system. However, if you are converting an existing R-12 system to R-134a, your old hoses are fine to use with the new R-134a refrigerant because the R-12 hoses have "seasoned," so they will suffer no adverse affects from the new refrigerant. Because of this, it is virtually impossible to get standard R-12 style hoses (without the barrier lining) anymore, so this isn't much of a concern. If you replace the hoses on your car, they will likely be the R-134a type.

The service ports are different mainly as a safety feature to ensure that service centers don't mix the two refrigerants when filling or recycling the coolant. Lubricating oils have come a long way in the last 30 years, and many of them are compatible with both types of refrigerant, so if you're rebuilding your own system, make sure to check the label.
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[http://pw1.netcom.com/~gentile/Vigor/Timely1002.htm ]

Converting to R-134a


High-Pressure Fitting

The conversion described here was done by a fellow known only as "Mat." He's not a club member, but he was good enough to provide the information and pics for this article. Thanks, Mat!

The first step is to purge the system of all the old R-12. By US law, the R-12 must be recovered by a "certified" air conditioning tech with "approved recovery equipment." If you just let the R-12 vent into the atmosphere, and an Eco-Nazi reports you to the authorities, The State can put you in jail and take your money away from you. Not good!

If you're friendly with an A/C tech, he may be willing to evacuate your system at no charge. After all, he gets to keep the R-12, and R-12 is expensive.

Once the system is free of R-12, you're ready to use your kit.

If you're like most Do-It-Yourselfers, you probably won't be doing anything to the high side of the system. In fact, Mat didn't even bother to install the high-side fitting. It's only function during a conversion is to attach a set of gauges which none of us probably has anyway.

So all the work will be done on the low-side.

Add R-134a to the Low-Side

First, remove the low-side fitting, screw in the new one, and add a can or two of R-134a to the low-side using the hose, as shown in the photo at right. The fittings are "quick connect" couplers. The new fitting is a male and the hose has a female connector. On the hose, slide the sleeve back, push it on to the male fitting, and release the sleeve.

Next, add the oil charge to the same fitting, as shown in the photo below.

Then, add the balance of the R-134a.

There's a bit of complexity involved here, but not much. The Vig's R-12 capacity is 28 to 30 ounces. R-134a should be installed at 10 to 15% less than R-12, or roughly 24 to 27 ounces.

Mat used two 12-ounce cans of R-134a. It also comes in 3, 5, 7, 13, and 16-ounce cans, so if you want to get creative, you can obtain just about any charge you want by buying various combinations.

When you're through, put the dustcap(s) on the fitting(s). The standard color code is Red for the high side and Blue for the low side.

Finally, put the sticker on, so anyone who services your A/C will know that it has R-134a.This is also required by law in the US.

Add Lubricating Oil to the Low-Side

Two things to keep in mind:

Mat claims the new R-134a refrigerant doesn't cool his car quite as much as the old R-12 did. Almost... but not quite. It isn't known whether Mat actually measured the outlet temperature with a thermometer or whether this is a subjective impression. Bubbles in the sight glass are normal. Also, for you general font of knowledge, most auto manufacturers generally strive for a 20° difference between ambient (outside) air and cooled air.

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{PROBLEMS WITH R-134a]

[http://www.delanet.com/~pparish/custinfo.htm ]

Short Comings & Solutions Using R134a For Retrofit

R12 oil (mineral oil) will not mix with R134a and be circulated through the air conditioning system for lubrication. This has been remedied by using synthetic oil. PAG (Polyalkylene Glycol) oil is used by all original equipment manufacturers and is harsh on seals and gaskets. Retrofit oil (Poyol Ester) oil is less harsh than PAG oil and can be used with R134a or R12 refrigerant. R134a refrigerant has smaller molecules and there for more prone to leakage. This has been remedied by using hose with a barrier linning and better seals and gaskets.

Air conditioning systems will run higher discharge (head) pressures when converted to R134a. This higher pressure will put additional stress on the A/C system.

This can be remedied by:
Wise use of the A/C, see below.
Make sure the condenser has clean fins and good air flow.
Add seals around the condenser to improve the air flow through it.
Make sure the fan clutch or the coolant fan motor is operating properly.
Make sure that any air dams etc. are not missing.

Increasing the air flow through the condenser with an additional electric condenser fan.

Upgrading the condenser to a R134a type with higher capacity. Vehicles with high heat load, such as vans and suburbans should have a safety cut off switch and an auxiliary cooling fan added. R134a has slightly lower cooling capacity than R12. Air conditioning systems that worked well with R12 should provide slightly reduced but adequate performance after retrofit.

R134a is not compatible with the desiccants in the existing filter driers and/or accumulators. This does not pose a major problem since driers over 5 years old should be replaced any way.

Our Procedures and Price There is no such thing as a universal retrofit procedure that will work for all cars. The price of a retrofit will vary depending on the vehicle and the level of parts replacement.
A retrofit should at least include: Remove R12 refrigerant, remove R12 oil, add special service fittings, add new label, add R134a lubricant, and add R134a refrigerant.


The Bottom Line Is Retrofit Performance & Dependability :

Air conditioning systems that worked well with R12 should provide reduced but adequate performance after retrofit. The results of a retrofit will vary depending on the climate and the condition of your vehicles air conditioning components. Components of a retrofitted air conditioner may experience shortened service life.

Wise Use Of The A/C
The wise use of your vehicles air conditioner can make the difference between dependability and disaster when adjusting to R134a. Wise use includes venting the hot air out of your vehicle while moving before turning the air conditioner on and running the air conditioner on low blower when sitting still.



Free Zone -- Refrigerant Alternative to R-12


(NOTE: EPA Certification card is required before a purchase of Free Zone RB-276 [Not available for consumer purchace, as is R 134a - RJ)]

["Free Zone" RB-276 ]
[http://www.heco.net/Whatis.htm ]
Differences Between R-12 and Free Zone

As mentioned earlier, Free Zone is lighter than R-12. Most systems will use 10 to 30% less refrigerant, so your supply will last longer, too!

Free Zone is charged as a liquid. Not because it is a blend, but to make sure the right percentage of oil is pulled into your system. (To prevent the possibility of liquid damage to a compressor, we include a charging orifice fitting in our FSP276 starter package).

Instead of using the sight glass for charging, use either your gauge set and the Free Zone pressure-temperature chart, or place a thermometer in the air outlet. Add Free Zone (slowly, in short bursts) as long as the temperature keeps dropping. Let the system stabilize between bursts. When the temperature starts to rise, stop charging. Do NOT clear the sight glass! You will probably be overcharged, and lose cooling. Charging instructions are included with each shipment of Free Zone.

We believe we have given you an honest representation of the facts about R-12 alternate replacements.

To back it up, we have a 1 year warranty and our personal satisfaction guarantee.

You can't really compare Free Zone with anything except R-12. Free Zone is the only replacement for R-12 that will give you all the advantages of R-12, and these benefits:

Maintain cooling efficiency
Compatible with R-12 (and R-134a) oil and receiver-drier
No changing of system components
Use your R-12 manifold gauge set
Can top off a system having a small leak without loosing cooling efficiency or compressor lubrication (Just remember, the EPA wants you to find and repair all leaks)

PLUS these added benefits:

Lower pressures cuts down system leaks
Lengthens compressor, clutch, belt, and drive pulley life
Freezone's special oil improves lubrication of compressor for smoother, quieter, and longer running
Freezone's special oil also protects your system from moisture and corrosion
Freezone's special oil helps the compressor shaft seal stay soft maintaining its seal around the shaft.
Considerably lower price than R-12, and readily available
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[http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php? ]

RB 276 has no propane or butane in it. Before you make a silly comment like that you really need to know what you are talking about. Free Zone is 79% 134A 19% 142B and 2% napthenic lubricant. If you think 409a is so good lets compare results. You will recieve lower pressures (By Far!!!) and lower temperatures than 409a all day long by switching to Free Zone. Thanks for you not though thought out reply and feel free to ask me any questions you wish on this refrigerant.
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[http://www.afcee.brooks.af.mil/pro-act/cross/ed72.asp ]

Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning Drop-in Replacement Keesler AFB, Mississippi Vehicle Maintenance personnel at the 81st Transportation Squadron, Keesler AFB, Mississippi (81 TRANS/LGTM), identified a need to replace R-12 (Freon) refrigerant in all vehicles, particularly those manufactured before 1993. While searching for replacements, they discovered Free Zone RB-276, which is designed to facilitate a "Quick Change" and does not require any retrofit parts (except Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) required service port fittings), adjustments or system flushes. Currently, R-134a is the most popular motor vehicle air conditioning (MVAC) replacement solution, however, there is an estimated cost savings of $1,000.00 per vehicle using RB-276 over R-134a.

In 1994, the EPA established the Signifigant New Alternatives Program (SNAP) to review alternatives to ozone-depleting substances like CFC-12. Under the authority of the 1990 Clean Air Act (CAA), the EPA examines new substitutes for their ozone-depleting, global warming, flammability, and toxicity characteristics. The EPA lists Free Zone RB-276 as a substitute for R-12 on its SNAP list. Additionally, the Air Force Management and Equipment Evaluation Program (MEEP) lists RB-276 as an acceptable alternative.

Details are found in Project ET94-53, which contains the results of a July 1994 through November 1995 test of RB-276. The MEEP report concluded that the results of the test were favorable, with RB-276 performing as advertised. RB-276 was therefore recommended as an alternative to R-12 in Air Force vehicle air conditioning systems. According to the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), RB-276 is non-flammable and contains no known or suspected carcinogens, pathogens, or mutagens. Free Zone RB-276 is now Federally Stock Listed, with National Stock Number (NSN) 6830-01-433-6674 for a 30-pound cylinder.

The conversion process from R-12 to RB-276 has proven to be uncomplicated and quick, with the entire conversion process taking approximately two hours. To convert from R-12 to RB-276, the R-12 must first be drained from the vehicle air conditioning system, and new service fittings must be installed on the service lines and vacuum system. This is necessary because the EPA mandates as part of the SNAP regulations that each new refrigerant must be used with a unique set of fittings to prevent the accidental mixing of different refrigerants. However, the R-12 mineral oil is completely compatible with RB-276, so purging or cleaning the system is not necessary. Instructions specify that the vehicle air conditioning system must be refilled with 10% less RB-276 than was required for R-12, because it is lighter than R-12.

A detailed label must be applied to the MVAC unit giving specific information about the alternative being used. Under Section 609 of the Clean Air Act, the EPA mandated that shop technicians use special machines to recycle R-12 (also known as CFC-12). Since all alternatives to R-12, besides R-134a, are considered blends, personnel at Keesler AFB, searched for a recycling machine. 81 TRANS/LGTM purchased, for approximately $4000.00, an R-134a recycling machine. According to base personnel, a starter kit is available from Free Zone (manufacturers of RB-276), and all that is required for operation is to attach the supplied hose lines to manifold gauges, which in turn attach to the MVAC system on the vehicle, and the recycling machine is ready for use.

For details on the Keesler conversion project, contact Mr. Michael Saucier, 81st TRNS/LGTM, Keesler AFB, MS, DSN 597-2293. For copies of the MEEP Report, or for more information concerning MVAC recycling units, contact PROACT at DSN 240-4214 or by e-mail at pro-act@brooks.af.mil.
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[http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/tr497.htm ]
The OEMS say R-12 should be used in all R-12 systems as long as it is available because R-12 provides the best cooling performance in these applications. They say there's no need to retrofit to R-134a or to use any other refrigerant as long as the system is cooling normally. But if the system requires major repairs such as a new compressor or condenser, the cost to retrofit may be justified.

The OEMS say switching an older R-12 system to R-134a does not require a lot of modifications in many instances. Changing the accumulator or receiver-dryer, removing the old compressor oil and replacing the high pressure switch is generally all that's needed—a job that can usually be done for less than $200.

OEM as well as aftermarket retrofit kits are now available for such conversions. But some vehicles (namely those with viton compressor seals, compressors that can't handle higher head pressures or have small condensers) aren't so easy to convert. Changing some of these vehicles over to R-134a requires extensive and expensive modifications. So for these applications there are no kits or easy answers—other than to switch to a blend refrigerant if R-12 becomes too expensive or is unavailable.
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[http://www.lenzdist.com/Prods.html.]

FreeZone: FreeZone (RB-276) is a non-toxic, non-flammable replacement for R-12 that contains no CFCs. FreeZone has been extensively tested for safety and compatibility with current R-12 systems. FreeZone RB-276 has been accepted by the EPA as an alternative to R-12. It is also approved by the military (MEEP and TARDEC) following years of extensive field and laboratory testing.

FreeZone is remarkably easy to use as an R-12 replacement. It operates at approximately the same pressure-temperature as R-12. It does not require system flushes or additional lubricant (it works with existing R-12 lubricant) and FreeZone RB-276 does not require the change to Barrier Hoses that is necessary with a number of other approved R-12 replacements.

Do you think FreeZone might be right for your particular R-12 replacement application? If you have questions, Lenz is here to help. For more information about FreeZone or any of the R-12 replacements on the market today, just call Lenz NOW toll-free at 1-877-243-8103 or...
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[http://www.heco.net/frezpric.htm]
RZ12-12 12 oz can Free Zone (12 per case) $10.00 each ; Price per case $120.00 / RZ12-25 25 lb cylinder Free Zone $265.00

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[http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us69932.htm]
"... Free Zone (RB-276). Supplied by Refrigerant Gases, this blend contains 79% R-134a, 19% HCFC-142b and 2% lubricant..."
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[http://www.bmwseven.com/Digests/27/27.71.4.html.]
Alternate chemicals such as Freeze-12 and RB-276? (may be the virtually the same?) are probably as good or almost as good as R-12 except you be somewhat unique in the ability to get it serviced. Basically the shops that don't support those fluids act like you are from Mars when you mention them. Personally, I think I will be using one of these two.
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GETTING AN EPA CERTIFICATE


You need EPA Certification for "Section 609 Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling Technician" IN ORDER TO PURCHACE R-12, RB-276, OR ANY REFRIGERANT OTHER THAN R-134a. You can get this certificate for $15 after taking an Open Book Test by mail - pretty simple, as long as you can stomach the "ozone hole" propaganda you have to memorize. The following are information and sources for this test. - RJ

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[EPA Certification -- http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/technicians/609certs.html ]

(From EPA:)Section 609 covers technician certification in the motor vehicle sector only. Becoming certified allows you to: (1) perform refrigerant servicing of vehicles with R-12, R-134a, or blend refrigerants; and (2) purchase R-12 and ozone-depleting blend substitutes for R-12 (right now, all BLENDS are "ozone-depleting" [Their wording]).
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ASE has a test for $15. And, to some, "ASE" looks good on the card:

Link Here For ASE Test: www.ase.com/...               ASE Home Page

ASE (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) , 101 Blue Seal Drive SE, Suite 101, Leesburg, Virginia 20175. (703) 669-6600

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["MACS" - http://www.macsw.org/certify.html ]
MACS Test: www.macsw.org/certify_test.html

(Email reply: "Order via our website, or by calling our office 8:30-5 EST with a credit card at 215-631-7020.")

How the MACS Program Works:

Order the test from MACS, either online or by phone, fax or mail. The testing fee is $15 for each technician.

MACS will supply you with a copy of the self-study Certification Training Manual for Refrigerant Recycling & Service Procedures for Automotive Air Conditioning Technicians. If you order by mail, phone or fax, you will receive the manual and test by U.S. mail. If you order online, you will be sent verification by email that your payment has been received, along with instructions for the download of the manual and the online testing procedure. After studying the 40-page manual, your test must be completed and returned to our contracted independent test scoring company within 90 days, either in the return envelope provided by mail, or through our online testing procedure.
The test scoring company will advise MACS of your score. If a passing score is attained, MACS will mail certification credentials, including a wall certificate and laminated wallet card.

Techs taking the test online will have their tests graded automatically after the test has been submitted for grading the results sent via email. Once you've successfully passed the certification test online, MACS will mail your certification credentials in the mail. In the meantime, a temporary certificate will be available for you to print out from your computer.

Persons not attaining a passing score on the first test will receive one re-test at no additional charge. Again, if you have ordered the test originally via phone, fax or mail, your second test will be sent via U.S. mail. If you ordered your original test online, your second test will also be online. Get MACS Certified! Take the test today.

"Federal certification requiments, such as the MACS certification,..."

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